Composite restorations

Just a few tips and tricks for completing posterior composite restorations...
1. You can apply some flowable composite in a thin layer after you've etched, primed and bonded to allow the restoration to fill the space adjacent to the matrix band in proximal boxes. only a thin layer though as any thicker will compromise the strength of the restoration (i.e. bad resistance form)
2. Use a half hollenback carver to slice a chunk of composite (from composite syringes assuming you don't use the disposable tips) and place it into the cavity by any means possible. a chunk of about 0.3-0.5 is a good compromise of time management and increment size. Increment is important yet again as it decreases the overall polymerisation shrinkage stress of the increment when you apply composite in smaller layers. Use a ball burnisher in a wiping motion towards the proximal outwards and coronally to "squeeze" the composite into the macrovoids.
3. You can apply a thin layer of bond to instrument surfaces to stop the composite from adhering to the instrument. that and avoiding actually physically pushing the material into the composite. (the more surface area the instrument has in contact with the composite the higher the chance of the composite sticking to the instrument and coming off the tooth.
4. When setting up the tofflemire matrix retainer, have the U upside down i.e. the curve is facing the occlusal. as well as the U in the band, should be facing the same way as the tofflemire matrix u to ensure that the occlusal of the band matches up with the occlusal of the retainer.
5: Sectional matricies can't be used when there is no adjacent tooth or the adjacent tooth is too far or when the cavity is not on the proximal surface or extends to other non occlusal surfaces.
6: You can use the high speed suction to dry the tooth instead of spraying air for extended periods of time. In my opinion (no scientific basis) it is less likely to overdry the tooth and you can hold it over there for a long time without being afraid of doing so.
7. When contouring the restoration (if you have a rubber dam applied) before the rubber dam is removed, use the polishing discs on the buccal and lingual surfaces as well as in the interproximal embrasures to remove the flash. use a larger round polishing bur and compare the marginal ridge of the tooth with the adjacent tooth by rolling up from the adjacent marginal ridge to the restored one. if it catches then the marginal ridge is too high. run the bur mesiodistally along the marginal ridge. after the height is levelled, use a football shaped bur along the cuspal inclines to remove high spots (what you think will be high spots). when all of that is done then remove the rubber dam and check the bite.
8. When checking the bite get the pt to bite down slowly and retract the cheek so you can see the teeth occlude. close slowly till first contact. if there is a gross high spot then grind it down. When it looks about right then get them to close down onto bite paper and tap their teeth together. if there is grossly more blue marks on the tooth compared to the other teeth then reduce the blue areas. there are two aims of reducing the height of the restoration. 1: to equalise the occlusal forces of that tooth and the rest of the mouth. 2: to reduces force on the restoration and distribute the force to the natural tooth structure (provided there is enough remaining tooth structure to withstand forces. Remember to check the interproximal contour for overhangs.
when using the interproximal strip TAKE care to keep adaptation on the tooth as you can cause gingival trauma to the papilla.
9. Then contouring is finished, ask the patient to feel the filling with their tongue for any sharp or rough spots and get them to describe the location to you. Smoothen it off with any bur of your choice